“Mumbai is the sweet, sweaty smell of hope, which is the opposite of hate; and it’s the sour, stifled smell of greed, which is the opposite of love. It’s the smell of Gods, demons, empires, and civilizations in resurrection and decay. It’s the blue skin-smell of the sea, no matter where you are in the island city, and the blood metal smell of machines. It smells of the stir and sleep and the waste of sixty million animals, more than half of them humans and rats. It smells of heartbreak, and the struggle to live, and of the crucial failures and love that produces courage. The smells of ten thousand restaurants, five thousand temples, shrines, churches and mosques, and of hundred bazaars devoted exclusively to perfume, spices, incense, and freshly cut flowers. That smell, above all things – is that what welcomes me and tells me that I have come home”.
Mumbai Meri Jaan
For the ones who’ve flipped through the pages of Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts, it’ll be really hard to come close to the most realistic and elaborate description of the rustic gem of this country – Bombay, now Mumbai. The major chunk of the population that has sniffed the smell of struggle and freedom in the city still prefer to call it Bombay. After all, the name releases the essence of what it was truly like in the days of yore.
‘’The choking humidity makes amphibians of us all, in Bombay, breathing water in air; you learn to live with it, and you learn to like it, or you leave.’’
When seven islands merge to become the melting pot of cultures, you call it Mumbai. Submerged in the sea of creativity, it is surrounded by the waters of the Arabian sea from all sides.
Every Man for Himself
Soaked in sweat, chasing the clock and minding one’s own business is how every man walks on the sideways, thoroughfares, bridges and skywalks of Mumbai.
‘’More dreams are realized and extinguished in Bombay than any other place in India.’’
When they say ‘’The city never sleeps’’, its for nothing. At every hour, every minute folks are keeping nose to grindstone. I wonder even if there is an apocalypse, the humans of this city will still be toiling their asses off and never leave you starving. You walk out of your room at 2 pm in scorching humid heat or 2 am in the damp yet cool and breezy atmosphere, it’s impossible to not cross a vada pao stall or bun maska and chai wala at every alternate street.
Street Food in Mumbai
Mumbai Street food in the city is something to die for. Street Food Stalls bridge the gaps of status in the city, the elites waiting in the parking space will be served the same food at the same price as the man who walked on foot till that famed pani puri or pao bhaji wala. Some local food stalls have served over the ever-growing population of this city for years and have now turned into landmarks for shops and offices.
- Cannon Pav Bhaji on Dadabhaji Naoroji Road near CST
- Anand dosa opposite Mithibai college
- Misal Pav at Aaswad
- Bhelpuri at Girgaun Chowpatty
- Shakes at Bachelors, Marine Drive Road
- Ice Cream Sandwich at Rustom, Churchgate
- Paan at Muchchad Paan wala
- Chicken shawarma at Carter’s Blue
- Burgers at Modern Juice centre, Colaba
- Salad at Bombay Salad Company
- Lassi shop opposite Dadar station
Khau Gallis
Ahh! I can jot down a dozen more such joints that are literally at the tip of my tongue while reminiscing about the unforgettable taste and vibe of these places. In a nutshell, nothing compares to the variety and quality of food that is served on your platter along with unparalleled hospitality in this city. Here are a few Khau Gallis (Food lanes) to satiate your hunger pangs and enlighten your unaware buds with the best best best street food everrrr.
- Girgaun Chowpatty
- Ghatkopar Khau Galli
- Carter Road
- Mohammed Ali Road
- Mahim Khau Galli
- Churchgate Khau Galli
- Vintage Irani Cafes
Bun Maska and Irani Chai
- – Merwan and Co. (Grant Road East)
- – Kayani Bakery and Co. (Charni Road)
- – Britannia and Co. (Ballard Estate)
Outside-In, Inside-Out
“A city may be dirty on the outside but is clean on the inside. Many cities in the world are clean on the outside but dirty on the inside.’’
Let’s take all you nomads for a stroll down the lanes of Mumbai that you would have envisaged while skimming through the pages of Shantaram. A world that Lin saw hasn’t changed much with only a few okay, not a few but many skyrocketing constructions and much development around but still the vibe that emancipates the crowd from mental slavery (Bob Marley reference alert) remains the same.
Iconic Places in Mumbai
Leopold Cafe
Leopold Café is brimmed with folks of all nationalities, a spot where Lin meets Didier, Vikram, Ulla, Modena, Maurizio and a lot more characters mentioned in the book. The café is eternalized in this memoir of Bombay from the 80’s. The café that survived the terrorist attack of 26/11 of which the traumatic memory is engraved in the form of bullet holes on its doors, walls and mirrors.
It is located in Colaba Causeway, one of the swarmed with ‘hawkers and kaali-peelis’ streets of the city. Also, a cheap-shopping paradise, one can only knock the herd of humans with their elbows, obviously unintentionally to pave their way through this overflowing lane.
Other spots for street shopping (Linking Road, Hill Road – Bandra, Fashion Street – Marine Lines, Lokhandwala Market)
Sassoon Docks
The reeking smell of fish leaks from every corner of the oldest fish market of this city. A fleet of boats parked at the bank, a cluster of Kolis running the errands of the day and recent installations and colorful artwork executed as a part of St+art Urban Art Festival is what you’ll see at this 142-year-old dock.
The land of everything legal and illegal, the millionaires and mafias, the sensational stars and the unidentified homeless, the joggers and junkies, the land of blatant conflict and striking contrast is the city of Mumbai.
Chor Bazaar
There is a saying that echoes in the Bhendi bazaar of Grant road that if someone loses anything in the city, it can be traced back to Chor Bazaar. Bustling with buyers, Chor Bazaar is a hub for collectibles from the bygone eras like the vintage cameras, fine sculptures and stones. If you are in Mumbai, this is that ‘have to go there’ kind of spot.
Dobhi Ghat
The fabric that this diverse city is tied with are all classic spots like Dobhi Ghat. The dhobis will peak from behind those white sheets and welcome the nascent photographers and travelers with a warm smile.
Such are the humans of Bombay.
A City of Dreams
“And then, last, what should’ve been first, I saw how beautiful they were: the women wrapped in crimson, blue, and gold; the women walking barefoot through the tangled shabbiness of the slum with patient, ethereal grace; the white-toothed, almond-eyed handsomeness of the men; and the affectionate camaraderie of the fine-limbed children, older ones playing with younger ones, many of them supporting baby brothers and sisters on their slender hips. And half an hour after the bus ride began, I smiled for the first time.”
What a dreamy Bombay the writer indulges you in, if you ever meander on these ‘walked over by thousands’ paths, you’ll know exactly what he was talking about. One city that takes you to a thousand places.
Mumbai Local
Pinching oneself out of this dream, let’s wake ourselves to the hard-hitting reality of commuting within the city. Local Train network has three lines, Western, Central and Harbor. To make your life easy, please download this app called M Indicator to know about the timings of buses and trains. Also, you can hop onto a horse carriage at Gateway of India, just for fun.
Mélange of Elements
As you might have seen a lot of standup comedians cracking jokes about the townies and suburbans, it’s out there that the Western Mumbai is divided into towns and suburbs. Every building that you happen to pass by in town will captivate you with its mélange of elements from Victorian, Mughal, Gothic, Art deco and Indo-Saracenic architecture. As you take an amble down the alleys of Fort, Kala Ghoda and Colaba, these charming edifices will leave your jaws dropped – Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Mumbai High Court, Mumbai University, Gateway of India, the Taj Mahal Palace, Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue, World Trade Centre, Bombay Stock Exchange and as you go further ahead towards Bandra, the vibe shifts to a much vibrant and happening side with rows of old Portuguese European style houses bunched in narrow lanes.
There is a lot more about this ‘city of dreams’ that cannot be sufficed in words. A snapshot of a multicultural and an energetic place that couldn’t be described in the voluminous account of 936 pages of Shantaram.
Art In Its Heart
Last but not the least, the quintessence of Mumbai is the art that dwells in the heart of it. The creativity that transpires from the ingenious minds that have come and settled here from all over the country. Whether it’s as big as the Bollywood industry or as small as the graffiti lanes of Bandra, every nook and cranny echoes of great art in all forms. The Galli rappers to indie musicians, the rock and blues enthusiasts to metalheads, the electronic Djs to soulful singers, you can choose your place as per your genre.
Boogie Down
The nightlife is nothing to boast about disjointedly, it’s very much the essence of this happening city. Few pubs and clubs I’ll recommend after spending 6 years of my life raging over weekends will be:
- Lord of the Drinks- Lower Parel
- Tamasha- Lower Parel
- Anti Social – Bandra
- The BAR Stock Exchange – Bandra
- The House – Versova
- Copa – Juhu
If ART and Theatre is something that interests you then don’t miss out on booking a show at Prithvi Theatre or NCPA. The Art Galleries that can be checked out for some tasteful, profound and unconventional art are:
- Jahangir Art Gallery
- Chemould Prescott Road Gallery
- Project 88
- Dr. Bahu Daji LAD Museum
- Chatterjee and Lal
- Tarq Art Gallery
A Life in Books
The bibliophiles can pay a visit to one of the most olden libraries in Bombay with intricate architecture, high ceilings and stack of books that are hard to find anywhere else are:
- David Sassoon Library
- The Asiatic Society
- Trilogy, Leaping Windows
- J.N Petit Library
- Kitab Khana (book store)
First Timer’s Guide to Mumbai
Now a couple of more things that you can do when you are in the city for the first time:
- Light a candle at Mount Mary, Bandra
- Bow Down at the Haji Ali Dargah (Also have their fruit cream, it’s out of the world)
- Touch down Siddhi Vinayak Temple, Mumba Devi Temple
- Go to Canvas Laugh Club to laugh your heart out
- Ferry Ride to Alibaug
- Sight-seeing at Elephanta Caves, Bandra Fort, Vashi Fort
- Dharavi Slum Tour
- Also, if you want to get start struck, Film city- Goregaon is the place to be.
Sun, Sand and the Sea
And finally, a serene and sonorous encounter with the waves of Arabian Sea at Marine Drive, Silver Beach, Versova Beach and Aksa Beach. You can just sit for hours staring at the sea, absorbing the city’s natural feel, weaving hopes and dreams until the voice of Chana Jor Garam guy pulls you out of this surreal world.
“That’s how we keep this crazy place together – with the heart…. India is the heart. It’s the heart that keeps us together. There’s no place with people, like my people, Lin. There’s no heart like the Indian heart.”
This post is written by Akshita Parihar. She lives in Dharamkot, a hamlet nestled at the foothills of the mighty Himalayas. Akshita documents i.e. photographs and writes about the folks in their natural element. A spiritual seeker and a nihilist. She left Bombay after working in the advertising industry as a copywriter for 4 years to dig in the culture of this country. This anthropology enthusiast also loves to illustrate, dance and hum Leonard Cohen and Johnny cash songs on the guitar.
Thank you Akshita for taking time in between running a cafe at Dharamshala to share your experience and recommendations for people looking to know more about Mumbai. This isn’t Akshita’s first guest post on the site so if you’re planning to go to Bir then check out her Quick Guide To Bir-Billing in Himachal Pradesh. And, if you’re planning to go to Goa anytime soon and looking for recommendations that does not include beaches then go read Goa Beyond The Beaches.