What if you wish to take a leap from the edge of a hill and let the wind take you to places? If you wish to take a stroll in the stretched out meadows with a stunning view but do not feel like trekking up till high altitudes? If you wish to sit on a log of wood for hours, holding a cup of filter coffee and beholding the sight of the sun leaving a trail of colors behind in the wide blue yonder?  ‘Bir Billing’ is the place you should put on your travel wishlist right away. There is a plethora of experiences that this paragliding paradise has in store for the solo travellers, adrenaline junkies, the whacky groups and solace seekers. 

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FLY TO THE VALLEY BELOW

Located in the Kangra District at the foothills of Dhauladhar ranges, Bir Billing in Himachal Pradesh is a celebrated site for paragliders from all over the world. It is swamped with adventure seekers during the peak season (October-June). The flyers are always geared up with the verve to take off from the second-highest paragliding peak in the world and it’s a sheer spectacle to watch those spellbinding human birds setting their foot on the landing site in the sweeping meadows of Chowgan Village (South of BIR). 

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EVERY MILE A MEMORY

The rustic county of Bir with the princely Chandravanshi lineage of Pal Dynasty is situated 50 kms southeast of Dharamshala merely two to three hours away by road. Home to Tibetan Refugee settlement with beautifully orchestrated Buddhist Monasteries, Bir is also a noteworthy abode for ecotourism, spiritual studies and local tea estates. Over the last few years, Bir has warmly embraced the outside inhabitants to set up their hostels and sweet breezy downtown cafes. The tourists have an array of options where they can sit back and chill in the quintessential vibe of spaces buzzed with creative dwellers.

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You can choose to explore Bir depending upon your travel mood. If your bum hurts, slogging on the desk of your Delhi/Gurgaon office and there’s a desperate need for a getaway, just hop on a bus from Kashmiri Gate or Majnu ka Tila that’ll get you to this paradise overnight or if you have ample time or a yearning for adrenaline rush, you can choose to enroll in one of the paragliding courses. (There are multiple professional institutions producing some kick-ass pilots every year.)

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ROAD TO SANCTITY 

‘’Everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time” by Steven Wright applies quite literally to this modestly sized county of Bir. A stroll down to the boulevard with deodars on either side will take you to the cynosure of this place – The Tibetan Colony, referred to as just ‘colony’ by the locals. If we flip a few pages back in the archives of this spot, it dates back to 1966, when the third Neten Chokling, an incarnate lama of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism (Nyingmapa is one of the four main schools of Tibetan Buddhism other than Kagyupa, Sakyapa and Gelugpa) initiated a 200 acres wide settlement for 300 Tibetan refugee families. The fourth Neten Chokling was brought to Bir from Bhutan to pass down the torch of Chokling Monastery when he grew up. 

I feel, being aware of the origin of someplace always spice up the journey of a traveller. It helps you connect in-depth with the intangible, the very essence of that space.     

Nyingma Monastery

So, as you hoof down the streets filled with peaceful folks draped in red robes, you can spot Nyingma Monastery on the main market road (opposite Hotel Surya Classic) and apart from getting mesmerized by the intricate architecture and harmonious energies, you’ll come across young monks walking back and forth in the verandahs with scriptures in their nascent palms, learning the profound lessons of life. Further down the path, the gates of Chokling Monastery will be open for you to step into the most serene realm of spirituality.

Palpung Sherabling Monastery

One cannot miss out on the whole enchilada of the chanting sessions (4-5 pm) at the Palpung Sherabling Monastery, sited in Bhattu Village, 5 km away from Bir (You can cab it down @300 – 400 Rs.). The flags sailing with the wind, that sliding touch spinning the prayer wheels, the sound of silence echoing in the gompa, even the air of these monasteries leave you with a sense of calm, an unfamiliar satisfaction.

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Other Monasteries to visit – 

Tsering Jong Monastery at Bir Colony Road

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Sakya Dirru – Tibetan Colony 

Dzongsar Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö – Chauntra, 7 kms from Bir

AT THE END OF THE TERRAIN 

Leonardo Da Vinci phrased it perfectly when he said “Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.” 

Bir Billing is home to professional pilots from all over the world. We were a little behind in time in exploring this paragliding heaven but now that we have, let’s gear ourselves up with those massive wings. You’ll find N-number of offices laying out different packages like Go pro or no go pro? You definitely want to record one of the most exhilarating experiences of your life. Cab or no cab? Honestly, it’s a task to trek up to the altitude of 2400mts so taking a cab is recommended unless you want to push those limits. 

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And once you reach the edge of that hill, the idea of building momentum and taking that leap shatters your strong-confident ego into pieces but hell yes, it is once in a lifetime moment you definitely want to seize. Once you’re there in the air defying gravity like a majestic bird is when you feel that adrenaline rushing through the veins, truly consuming you, when every cell you’re made of comes alive and you breathe in the most ineffable instance of your life. Ah it’s one of those ‘you have to do it to know it’ kind of experiences.

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LAND AT THE BREEZY-DOWNTOWN CAFES

Once you’ve flapped those wings and touched down the landing site, you have all the time in the world to enlighten your taste buds with food that soothes your soul. All these cute little cafes are lined up at the Colony Road that leads to the landing site.

June16

For the best pancakes and breakfast spreads.

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Kaafila

#BombaytoBir – The best vada-paos and sumptuous Gujarati dishes.

Avva’s

The homeliest café of Bir run by a South Indian family, serves mollifying dosas and to-die-for filter coffee. 

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Cloud9

For best pizza in Bir.

Silver Linings

Cozy mud-hut like structure with ultra-soft cakes and bakery bites.

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Moonshine

The best burgers and continental in town.

Nyingma Café

Americano, English breakfast and Orange juice with serene environs.

TRAIL TO GRATIFICATION

Small Hikes that can be done within 3-4 hours (Up and back) – Mata Maheshwari, Gunehar Waterfall

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Treks that you need to be methodically geared up for with camping equipment and courage- RajGundha Village 

Other treks that you can do:

1. Chhota Bangal 
2. Bara Bangal 
3. Hanuman Garh 

LESSONS FOR LIFE 

Bir encompass some of the best Institutions for the philosphiles and artists

The Deer Park Institute

Centre for the study of classical Indian wisdom traditions, contemporary art and culture workshops, philosophy and meditation practices.

The Dharmalaya Institute

Campus for lessons in sustainable village development, contemplative service-learning.

Andretta Sight Seeing

Shobha Singh Art Gallery, Theatre Space, Painting and Pottery School.

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Arya Marga Yoga Institute

Integrative Yoga & Therapy Courses that cover Yoga Physiology, Psychology and Kundalini Kriya.

TEMPLES TO VISIT 

OTHER ACTIVITIES TO DO AROUND BIR BILLING

1. Mountain Biking/Cycling

2. Bungee Jumping

3. Camping at Riverside, Barot 

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4. Tea Production at Bir Tea Factory

5. Toy train ride from Ahju to Baijnath

6. Visit Badagran village to witness the rural lifestyle of Hmachal

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What is the best season to visit Bir Billing?

The best season to visit Bir is from October to June. But if you are someone who doesn’t like crowded places then I would suggest that you go to Bir in August during the monsoon (Warning: Many cafes will be closed during this time).

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How to reach Bir Billing?

By Bus: If you are going from Delhi NCR then take a bus from Kashmiri Gate or Majnu Ka Tila. Ram Dalal, Northen Travels and Snow Region Tours are some of the best bus services to Bir.

By Road: You can take the following route to Bir from Delhi, Karnal – Ghagar – Kiratpur – Nangal – Una – Bir. It took us around 16 hrs to reach Bir from Delhi, with stops at Mannat Dhaba for dinner, Tea break at Ambala Cantt, Rested for two hours at Anandpur Sahib, breakfast at Una.

By Train: Take a train till Pathankot and then hire a private taxi or take the local bus to Bir.

By Flight: The nearest airport to Bir is Dharamshala (70 Kms) and Chandigarh (290 Kms).

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Where to stay in Bir Billing?

Luxury: Colonel’s Resort, Parvatah, Tatva Bir Resorts 

Mid-range: Camp Oak View, Paul’s Manor Hotel, Siddhartha Greens Resort

Budget: The Bunker Hostel, Hosteller, Bir Nest, Monkey Mud Hostel, Go Stops, Zostel.

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I am sure, you wish to pack your bags and leave right away but let’s keep this one until this all gets over and you can fly to the valley below.

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This post is written by Akshita Parihar. She lives in Dharamkot, a hamlet nestled at the foothills of the mighty Himalayas, Akshita documents i.e. photographs and writes about the folks in their natural element. A spiritual seeker and a nihilist at times left Bombay after working in the advertising industry as a copywriter for 4 years to dig in the culture of this country, the anthropology enthusiast also loves to illustrate, dance and hum Leonard Cohen and Johnny cash songs on the guitar.

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Thank you Akshita for taking time in between running a cafe at Dharamshala to share your experience and recommendations for people looking for a quick guide to Bir-Billing. This isn’t Akshita’s first guest post on the site so if you’re planning to go to Goa anytime soon and looking for recommendations that does not include beaches then go read Goa Beyond The Beaches.

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