As we crossed Larji-Sainj road, driving towards Shangarh, the phantom white mountains suddenly reared into the sky. The morning chill made me close the car windows but the sight in front of me compelled me to roll down and click a few pictures. The aroma of the forest around us was intoxicating, the river curved gently following us to our destination and the plum trees at a distance resembled cherry blossoms. Was I in heaven?
View from Larji-Sainj Road 
Towards Ropa
But the ride ahead was bumpy, I almost jumped out of my seat a few times because of the potholes on road. We reached our homestay at Shangarh around 10.00 am and was welcomed with breakfast which was very much needed at that time. After the breakfast, I just sat there for a few hours admiring the meadows in front of me, it looked as if it had stepped out from the pages of a storybook. The sky above the meadow was a treat to the eyes too, along with fluffy clouds in a cocktail blue skyline.
A Special Day At A Special Place
On the first day of our stay, we celebrated Women’s Day, our gracious hosts, Suchita and Vikash arranged for all the celebrations and also got a cake specially from Sainj. It was very thoughtful of them, we along with the womenfolk of the house cut the cake and someone played the guitar and someone clicked pictures whereas someone else arranged for photo ops. It was truly a special day.
Striking a tune 
Happy Faces 
Women’s Day Cake
Bonding Through Travel
Day 2 was all about bonding with fellow travellers and doing things together. We woke up early to see the sunrise, then after breakfast we hiked to a nearby waterfall, cooked dinner and sat across the bonfire listening to music and making campfire popcorn.
Celebrating Holi at Shangarh
What a day it was? I stopped celebrating Holi almost 20 years back, around the time I was still in school. So, when I decided to play Holi again after so many years, it had to be special. All the arrangements were done perfectly, from Gujiya to Thandai, organic colours to water balloons, local Himachali breakfast of Siddu and ghee and Bollywood Holi songs to keep us on our feet.
Shan’e’Garh Holi
The group 
Been putting colors 
Colors of life 
Where is Shangarh?
Shangarh is 29 kms ahead of Aut Tunnel in Sainj Valley of Kullu district, Himachal Pradesh. Just before the Aut tunnel, take the right turn towards Larji-Sainj road which will take you to Sainj Valley. Keep following the Sainj-Siund road towards GHNP Ropa Forest Complex and continue till Neuli, a few kilometres before Neuli the road takes a diversion for Shangarh.
What is the best time to visit Shangarh?
You can visit Shangarh throughout the year, but the best time would be in Summer, from March to June. During the Monsoons, the roads become slippery and its very difficult to drive and even walk there. If you want to see snow, then December to January is perfect time for you to visit Shangarh.
How do I reach Shangarh?
Air: Fly to Delhi or Chandigarh airport, and then hire a car.
Train: Nearest railhead is Chandigarh or Una, from there you can hire a car of take the bus.
Bus: Take Bus till Aut Tunnel, from there you can hire a private car or take the local bus to Shangarh.
Car: To drive all the way to Shangarh, you would ideally require a 4X4 car because the roads are really bad after Ropa Forest Complex. If you are driving your own vehicle then you can park it a few kilometres before Shangarh [if its not a 4X4]. If you are hiring a car from Delhi then it will cost you around 7k for Shangarh. Alternately, you can also take a bus till Aut Tunnel and then hire a cab, if you take a cab from Aut Transport Union then it will cost you Rs. 2500, but if you know a local from Shangarh then they can arrange a vehicle for Rs.1400.
That was our ride for few kilometres 
That was our ride for few kilometres
Where do I stay in Shangarh?
Surprisingly, there are many homestay options available at Shangarh. I stayed at ‘Shan’e’Garh’ homestay which had an amazing view along with very hospitable hosts. I stayed there for three days and each day they had a different menu which included local dishes from the region along with North India food to suit our palette. We had a guest along with us from London who was allergic to gluten and the hosts made sure to cater to her requirements as well.
Other options in Shangarh includes Shangarh Inn, Hotel Divine Land, Rana Homestay and Teja Homestay.
Front view of Shan’e’Ghar 
Chole Bhature for breakfast 
Balcony view 
Kitchen Area 
Inside the kitchen 
Room View
Will my phone work at Shangarh?
Most networks will work including Airtel, Jio and BSNL. But Vodafone will have limited network, I had Vodafone and had to depend on others to share their hotspot with me. Only at some spots, I had network to make calls but no internet.
What can I do in Shangarh?
If you ask me personally, I wouldn’t do anything! For me, soaking in the place is an activity in itself. I could spend days there, just sitting and looking at the mountains.
But if you must do something, then I have made a short list of things that one can do at Shangarh.
1. Shangarh Meadows
Take a stroll in the meadows, read a book, pack yourself a lunch and eat it while admiring the mountains in front of you. You will also meet a lot of locals here, so its a good place to strike a conversation and get to know about the place.
View of the Meadows 
Enjoying the sun at the meadows
2. Sangchul Mahadev Temple
This temple has a very interesting story associated with it, eloped lovers can come here to seek refuge. According to mythology, it has been said the Pandavas came to Sangchul Mahadev to seek protection from Kauravas. When Kauravas caught up to Pandavas and came here, Sangchul Mahadev told the Kauravas that whoever comes to him for asylum never goes back empty handed. Since then, whoever comes here for sanctuary is never denied of it.
Sangchul Mahadev Temple
3. Barshanghar Waterfall
Around 3.5 kilometre from the village is Barshanghar waterfalls. You can walk or take your vehicle till there but keep in mind that the road leading to the waterfall is very narrow and full of potholes. Once you reach Barshanghar, you have to hike for 20 minutes to reach the waterfalls. The waterfall is not magnanimous but its a nice place to chill and go for day picnics.
4. Village Trails
I read somewhere, ‘to know the vein of a place, you got to talk to its people’. Stands true for villages specially, if you are interested in knowing about rural lifestyle then interacting with the locals is a good way to do it. Everyone is friendly here, you can literally go to any household and strike a conversation, as we are intrigued to them, they too are curios about us city folks.
5. Pundrik Rishi Lake
A scared lake for the locals, one is allowed to go till the lake but touching the water is strictly prohibited. The hike till the lake is worth experiencing with unique vegetation all a round you.
Read more about Pundrik Lake here:
Pundrik Rishi Lake by Jitaditya Narzary
6. Dhel Thatch Trek
This Dhel Thatch Trek is one of the best treks in Great Himalayan National Park. The starting point of this trek is from Shangarh and the trail goes via Homkhani Meadow towards Dhel Thatch.
Read more about Dhel Thatch trek here:
Dhel Thatch Trek – Great Himalayan National Park by HMRA – Treks
5 trips to Shangarh and still counting. Among my favorite escapes.
This is such a beautiful village. I have been there twice and waiting for my third trip.
I so miss this place. Wish I can get a day to go back there and just lay down on Devta Ground and stare at the sky…
Beautiful description and pictures. Never knew about this place before. I have not visited Kullu yet.
Thank you dear. Now that you know of this place, make sure to visit it 🙂